"Welcome to Wonderland." I had traveled to San Francisco often and stayed in some of the finest hotels, but the intrigue of the pretentiously cool W Hotel "south of Market" landed two of us girlfriends there one recent weekend via a great Internet deal. The three-story lobby 
was dramatically moderne, votive candles glimmered in the low-lighting, the staff were animated by headsets and initially there was the slightest question whether this was too hipster or romantic for a couple of 50-something professional women and moms intend on power-shopping and gourmet food adventures.
The good news was that the over-the-top surface quickly gave way to a warm, friendly and accommodating hotel offering both the excellent service expected by seasoned business travelers and the whimsy of a stylish urban weekend. There were all the signature Starwood Hotels features, including the pillow-top mattress and high-thread-count sheets, in our "spectacular double" room, spacious for a downtown hotel, in cool and calm black and mahogany. When I pressed the "Service Express" button on the telephone, the branded 24-hour Starwood concierge service, I was confident of the immediately responsive outcome despite the rather airy "Whatever, whenever..." response. (That's part of the "wonderland" mystique.)
I've learned to ask for high floors, and we got the top -- the 31st -- with an unobstructed view of the Bay Bridge. The high bench window seat with pillows positioned us well for reading and spectacular viewing. High floors often get you away from the riff-raff, and certainly the rooms are lighter and suffer less street noise (in this case, a fire station next door). You also get admiring looks as others disembark for their lower floors. Speaking of noise, I always make sure I'm not close to an elevator -- as noise is guaranteed.
The main lobby had the feel of a city boulevard, a real thoroughfare, where grunge and chic mixed comfortably on sofas, in the energetic bar and in the exceptional restaurant XYZ. The live concierge in the lobby was friendly, helpful and knowledgeable.
The W San Francisco is well situated next to the Museum of Modern Art, 
across from the Moscone Convention Center and Yerba Buena Center for the Arts (and gardens) and within easy walking distance of fashionable Union Square, sight-seeing trolleys and the wonderfully renovated Ferry Building, transformed into a lively marketplace of gourmet foods, classy gift boutiques and casual restaurants. A quick cab ride for dinner across town in North Beach was $8.
Other hotel picks downtown:
The Palace Hotel-- Historic and grand south of Market and near Union Square. Walk everywhere.
Prescott Hotel -- One of the stylish Kimpton Hotels paired with high-profile restaurants and packages catering to women, the Prescott is a four-star luxury boutique hotel one block from Union Square and houses Wolfgang Puck's award-winning Postrio restaurant. Don't be daunted by the "luxury" label, as there are always "hot dates/great rates" and other specials and packages available.
Hotel Triton -- Another Kimpton Hotel, this one is wildly funky (occasional palm-reading in the lobby). If you don't like eye-popping colors and fanciful harlequin patterns on wallpaper and fabrics, this may not be for you. I love the high energy "eco-chic" of the Triton, where rooms have hand-painted wall finnishes and decor by celebrity designers. Situated next to the Chinatown Gate, a few blocks off Union Square, and home to the Cafe de la Presse restaurant, a true French cafe with a huge assortment of newspapers from around the world.
Another good choice:
Renaissance Stanford Court Hotel on Nob Hill -- good location, extremely dependable and high-end Marriott property, ranked among the Historic Hotels of America and across from the Fairmont Hotel.
A breathtaking splurge:
Mandarin Oriental in the downtown financial district -- Ranked in Travel and Leisure's Readers Poll of the Top 500 Hotels of the World. The hype is true. Girlfriends, just split the check.
Restaurant Picks (best to reserve in advance when you make your room reservations):
Betlenut (Union Street near the Marina District) -- inventive pan-Asian flavors best on many small plates, specialty drinks and an assortment of teas. 2030 Union St., 415.929.8855.
Bizou (South of Market) -- "rustic" Mediterranean with amazing vegetable sides and salads. 598 Fourth St. (at Brannan Street). 415.543.2222.
Delfina (Mission District) -- lively and stylish Italian trattoria. 3621 18th St., 415.552.4055.
Restaurant Lulu (South of Market) -- rotisserie specials daily and Provencal-inspired. 816 Folsom Street (at Fourth St.), 415.495.5775.
Rose Pistola (North Beach) -- I keep returning to this Italian treasure, upscale but reminiscent of the "old neighborhood." Great bar, frequent jazz and sidewalk tables for people-watching. 532 Columbus Ave., 415.399.0499.
Zuni Cafe (Civic Center) -- Mediterranean fare, big windows, and it's been there forever for a reason. 1658 Market St., 415.552.2522.
Great shopping:
Entertainment -- don't miss "Beach Blanket Babylon." This is the longest-running review in musical theater, celebrating its 30th year in 2004, a witty satirical musical spoof on contemporary culture. Like "Capitol Steps" in DC, the skits change with the topics of the day. So now it's Bush, Cheney, Condoleeza Rice, Arnold (the California Gubernator), and Martha Stewart (jailhouse blues?). We girlfriends did it and lived to tell great stories!
Parking (beware) -- Parking in the city can cost $25-40 a day. Taking a cab from the airport may be a much better value (from SFO around $55 with tip). Cabs are reasonable if you plan to stay in the city, and this is a city for great walking. There are rental car offices downtown but restrictions may apply that make it easier and more cost-effective to rent a car at the airport.
