Halfway between LA and San Francisco is California's Central Coast region. For many out-of-state visitors, it's a pass-through between better-known Santa Barbara, Hearst 
Castle, and Big Sur. Those of us who know Pismo Beach, the Edna Valley, San Luis Obispo, and Paso Robles are gleeful that overwrought tourism hype hasn't ruined the local feel. After all, look what happened to Santa Barbara County after the highly successful movie, Sideways (see my archived article). Today, the word "overrun" comes quickly to mind.
I try to get to the area once a year. Halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, the area is perfect for an overnight en route -- about 3 1/2 to 4 hours from each end of the trip along US 101. Others I know go to the Central Coast for long weekends or vacations. Here you find funky beach towns with dramatic views from abrupt cliffs, the Pacific Gibraltar of Morro Rock, two intimate wine regions, a charming college town, the legendary Madonna Inn (which beats Hollywood and the Poconos for authentic kitsch in one fell swoop), and wild nature -- monarch butterfly preserves, whale-watching, and elephant seal colonies.
Read on for the full trip...
From the south, after passing through the Santa Barbara area and its wine country, I enter the Central Coast region at Arroyo Grande and shortly afterwards, Pismo 
Beach. Thankfully the 21st century and about half of the 20th have missed this low-key beach community, which still has '50s-style drive-in restaurants and low-rise cliffside motels and cottages that don't try too hard. I always stop at the Best Western Shorecliff Lodge because of their free wireless (Wi-Fi) Internet, which I can get in my room as well as public areas.
There's an assortment of hotels in the entire area, including the Cliffs Resort, San Luis Creek Lodge, the Apple Farm inn, and the Inn at Morro Bay.
Heading east to Edna Valley, I cruise along 12 miles (north to south) of two-lane roads and gently sloping hills nesting fewer than 20 vineyards on 2,600 acres. The first vines were planted here in the 1880s in the early days of California viticulture, and the popular Meridian label relocated there from Napa Valley more recently. The long growing season is influenced by cool marine air flowing into the valley and intensifying the grape flavors. The road is practically empty weekdays. I marvel at how many different shades of green are reflected in these pastures. Tasting rooms present themselves on varying schedules, so it's always smart to call first. I look especially for Wedell (French-style Burgundies), Domaine Alfred (Pinot Noir and Syrah), Laetitia (Burgundy and Bordeaux varietals), and Talley (robust Chardonnays).
At the northern end, San Luis Obispo, home to Cal Poly San Luis Obispo University, offers a charming historic district, and the energetic spirit of a college town combined with a specialized palette for food and wine that pervades the restaurant scene. I highly recommend Blue (998 Monterey St., 804.783.1135), a brick saloon-style restaurant with high ceilings, dark woods, and a huge wine list from California, Spain, Italy, Germany, and France. I was delighted with the endive salad with julienned fennel and celeriac with almonds and capers in champagne vinegar preceded a capacious seafood linguini. So friendly is the place that I was invited to join a table of three over-50s, and though I declined, enjoying my down time, that was a pleasant indicator of the atmosphere.
To the west, a 20-minute drive past the university leads t
o the coastal village of Morro Bay, a small copy of Monterey's Cannery Row with sport fishing and salt water taffy. Towering Morro Rock, a California registered landmark, looms along the beach casts sprawling shadows late in the afternoon, adding to the windy and wild shoreline and 10 rows of breakers. The mini-mountain is the last in a chain of nine peaks (or volcanic "morros") that start in San Luis Obispo and give the area its identifiable topography carved by eruptions 22 million years ago. On the way out of town I stop at Fosters Old-Fashioned Freeze for a real ice cream soda.
Paso Robles, farther north, is home to organic farmers, nearly 100 wineries specializing in Rhone-style blends, and food artisans whose produce, cheese, olive oil, and other carefully crafted foods help ensure the reputations of fine restaurants all over the state and beyond. The LA Times recently dubbed the area "A Napa Just Waiting to Happen." The historic town square, which suffered considerable earthquake damage in December 2003, is rapidly rebuilding, and several restaurants have won Wine Spectator awards of excellence, including Villa Creek (1144 Pine St., 805.238.3000), Bistro Laurent (dinner) and Le Petit Marcel (lunch), 12th and Pine St., 805.226.8191). A popular newcomer is Buona Tavola, 943 Spring St., a northern Italian trattoria.
Last but not least, the Madonna Inn, a fairytale motel complex that opened nearly 50 years ago and features 100 themed suites, such as the Sugar and Spice, Paris Violets, and Yosemite Rock. If nothing else, take a detour for lunch in the Copper Cafe and walk around the property, a mini-Disneyland at the entry -- or exit -- to the Central Coast. You'll leave with a smile, if not a chuckle.
