Cocobay Resort: Island Time in the Caribbean

  The shaded breezeway of Cocobay Resort's welcome area is the entrance to paradise on the island of Antigua. While "paradise" is a frequent term from the Florida Keys to the southern Caribbean, Cocobay Resort can comfortably claim it. Easing into the Caribbean for a couple of days before a cruise, we're greeted with tropical punch, gracious hospitality, and a gentle transition into "island time."

Antigua lies in the Leeward Islands in the eastern Caribbean and is known for the breezes that heat-tempering breezes, white beaches, villages with colorfully painted houses, a welcoming spirit, and 108 square miles of history and scenic variety. Not overdeveloped as an island, it's no wonder that celebrities have escaped to Antigua for their exclusive hideaways. Our bungalow on the sunset side was one of the choicest, close enough to the water to hear lapping ways and somewhat removed from the other cottages. But all 41 cottages are situated for privacy, with covered verandas and sea views from hammocks and Adirondack chairs. The local "no problem" attitude tamps down stress quickly.

Looking out through mosquito netting draped across the custom bed the first morning, I woke to turquoise and emerald water rimmed by bright green hills. In some places on the island, the hills rise to 1300 feet, then roll down to open plains with grazing goats, sheep, and cattle on a terrain mixed with rocky limestone, coral, and volcanic rock.

Cocobay was created in 2000 by two entrepreneur brothers who built the cottages, primarily for two people each, as an alternative to the large resorts, such as nearby Jolly Beach (casino, cricket stadium, and shopping center) or the very intentional upscale chic of the new Carlisle Bay a few miles to the east. Cocobay is intended to feel like home, with an all-inclusive plan (accommodations, three buffet meals a day, house wines, high tea, and water sports) that make it an effortless sanctuary.

The resort is especially popular with guests from the United Kingdom and Europe, who often return annually. They've discovered something that Americans should know. The family feeling extends to staff, who look forward to their returning guests. We would talk to lovely Kathleen, our server at meals, about her family and our families. We hugged when we departed.

Replicating the early settlers' dwellings, the cottages are made of local materials -- twig fencing, decorated pine walls and beams, copper sconces, and tin roofs. Colorful tropical vegetation hide tree frogs and piping frogs that serenade at night. Small lizards populate like insects. Structures here are designed for outdoor living; shutters or window protectors built on angles block the intense midday sun and provide enough shelter, along with breezes and ceiling fans, so that air conditioning is not even a thought. Unusual fact -- the pineapple plant is native here, brought to the island 2000 years ago by the Arawak Indians.

The all-inclusive concept adds to the homestyle atmosphere. You can move from the stunning cliffside pool to the bar to the spa to the restaurant without having to fumble with cash or calculate gratuities. The main restaurant is open air on several levels overlooking the water. A breakfast buffet spread delivers eggs, meats, pancakes, cereals, fresh pineapple, fresh grapefruit, watermelon slices, and juices. At lunch, a cook is preparing local grill fish, and there is beef stew, bowtie pasta with peppers and onions, squash chowder, lasagna, salad bar, fruit salad, mango sorbet and homemade butter pecan ice cream. Dinner brings a choice of three appetizers, three entrees -- my favorite is always the local fish with a red pepper coulis or other simple garnish, and several desserts. We selected premium wines at reasonable prices from Chile.

Cocobay's even more secret treat is the restaurant Sheer, a cliffside hideway that is open to the public and not part of the all-inclusive package. See the next post for that memorable experience.

Getting there: Cocobay is located on the southwest side of Antigua, about 20 minutes from the capital St. John's and 30 minutes from the VC Bird International Airport. Rates from now until mid-December -- the bridge season -- are slightly lower, due in part to the reality of hurricane season until November.