The Cocobay Resort's exclusive restaurant Sheer is a gem of a 
secret in Antigua. Tucked on a cliffside at the resort on the southwestern side of the island, Sheer is situated in six split-level open pavilions connected by wood deck walkways. Overlooking the Caribbean and softly lit rocks, the restaurant seats only two dozen guests in tables of two or four and is open for dinner five nights a week. Definitely plan and reserve ahead, as there are no resets any evening.
As you look out into the star-filled black sky, Sheer creates an experience that crystallizes the template for a perfect island evening. What's is all about here? "Shia," explains the chef, is an adjective for "completely, absolutely, unmitigated..." And there you have it.
Scottish chef Nigel Martin has created a fresh and bold approach fusing spices and flavors of East India, Asia, and Latin America in menus that change daily. Our dinner choices included an appetizer --salmon and conch cakes with preserved lemons, mustard greens, avocado, and horseradish, and a soup that received a special rave -- avocado and caviar chilled with Grey Goose Vodka L'Orange.
With prices comparable to a fine but not exorbitantly priced meal in San Francisco or DC (entrees in the $20s), the menu offered main course highlights of black banana and pistachio-capped seabass, the pine nut and mint-crusted lamb loin, the Bengali-spiced rabbit and quail, and the sugar cane tuna with cucumber and shrimp salsa.
True to the promise, the desserts and wine list were totally unmitigated. No rush either. Excellent service but a spirit encouraging our enjoyment of island time, which lasted long into the evening.
