womantraveler

Venice at Dawn

Sailing into Venice at dawn aboard Silversea cruise's Silver Wind took our breath away as this floating "city of water" revealed itself in dewy silence before our eyes. Hours later, the plazas and canals would be jammed with people and boats (unfortunately) typical of hot August tourism. But we experienced the postcard-perfect serenity that preserved the magic of the Byzantine-to-Renaissance grandeur of the Grand Canal and its singular landmarks, just like the Venetian explorers  who returned after exporting the luxurious and refined lifestyle of Venezia to other exotic lands.  
Venice is a city that you have to see and feel in your own way. It is primarily a miracle but can also seem an unpleasant nightmare (as in schlepping suitcases on boats and over pedestrian bridges where no cars can travel). That said, the memories of Venice will never leave you, despite any inconveniences.

Midday we caught a glimpse of Piazza
San Marco (St. Mark's Square) and its renowned Basilica di San Marco and Palazzo Ducale, mixes of Byzantine, Gothic and Renaissance styles and notable for the eras of Venetian commercial power that they represent. But because the lines were forbidding (and the pigeons aggressively teasing them), we meandered more peacefully through a few interior canals. Best not to visit Venice in August!

Understanding the situation quickly, we opted for the best outing -- hiring a water taxi for an hour-long tour in the late afternoon through the Grand Canal and its offshoots so we could explore on our own terms and see the "back streets" of Venice. The gondoliers are charming as they navigate the 150 canals, but the water taxi ride gave us more space, more distance and a more affordable price. Just go to the Piazza San Marco docking area and pay the 100 euros for your own cruise through "La Serenissima" (Venice at its most serene) with a guide in your own language -- and a taste of the city's sturdy grandeur that you will never forget.

Passing the "palaces" or mansions still preserved over the water from the 12th to the 18th centuries by the city's richest families is a movie scene that you must witness in person. Viva Venezia!

Split, Croatia's Roman History

Split, Croatia, is a boisterous new-world presence signifying dramatic old-world Roman conquests. Croatia's second-largest city is southeast of Venice across the eastern Adriatic Sea. It was our last destination before landing in Venice on our Silversea cruise. Split's historical old town is dominated by the Diocletian Palace, finished in 305 AD as a massive "retirement" home for Roman Emperor Diocletian. The great reformer wanted the once-opulent fortress constructed near his hometown of Salona on the central Dalmatian Coast.

We sailed into Split on a miserably hot August day on our Silversea cruise, but the historical journey through the old town and the palace were well worth a two-hour jaunt. The dimensions of the palace alone are stunning -- walls from 570 to 700 feet long and 50 to 70 feet high, enclosing an area of 9.5 acres. At times it was inhabited by 8,000 to 10,000 people, so it was also filled with outdoor areas and gardens. You can walk among the ruins, go down into the cavelike foundation and see the remnants of the aqueduct spring that fed the palace water supply.

Before Diocletian, the region was part of the Greek empire, and after the Roman Empire fell, Spalatum became part of Byzantium. Today much of the old town meanders in and out of the palace remains, and the Mediterranean-influenced city is a lively shopping destination with old world and contemporary products for tourists and a transition point to the beautiful Dalamatian Coast beaches.

Medieval Kotor, Montenegro

The Bay of Kotor is a glistening fjord off the Adriatic Sea on the southern shore of the Dalmatian Coast; in fact, it's the largest natural port in the eastern Mediterrean region. Continuing on our Silversea cruise, we entered the bay at dawn with its 100 miles of coastline.I stood quietly with several passengers above the bow of the ship for the serene entry into the mountain-rimmed passage that once stood as a defensive military position in the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The bay's amazing beauty comes from the blue sea, stony shore, pine-covered mountains and rocky bulwarks crossed by conquerors and traders.

Kotor, Montenegro today is a throwback to ancient eastern Europe. Once part of Yugoslavia, the nation of Montenegro is only 14,000 square kilometers in size, with remarkable geographical contrasts -- glacial lakes, rocky cliffs and the second deepest canyon after the Grand Canyon. Kotor has had many historical identies and today it remains caught between east and west -- a Balkan nation that was once in union with Serbia, that was part of the Venetian empire, that uses the euro but is not part of the European Union, that communicates in both Cyrillic and Roman alphabets.

Because of its important location linking eastern and western Europe, Kotor has always been a city of traders and sailors. Much of what we visit today in the walled city was built between the 12th and 14th centuries. Nearly destroyed several times over the centuries by earthquakes, it remains one of the best preserved medieval towns in Europe. It's protected by rivers and mountains and three city gates. About 20 fortifications stand along the serpentine fortress walls, which climb up 260 meters above sea level, and the more adventurous tourists still make the 1300-step trek. In fact, the climb is so treacherous that churches were constructed on the on hillside walls so that soliders would not have to go all the way down the mountain to worship.

Originating in the 3rd century BC, Kotor reflects its rich cultural heritage -- including Byzantine, baroque, Venetian and multi-ethnic Balkan influences. And today it's a popular summer destination with a lively club scene and festivals. I highly recommend the guided tour, with engaging and novel stories about a varied history, its churches and museums and the pirates who once ruled the coasts. At one time there were 30 churches along these narrow passageways and small squares. Still remaining are such edifices as St. Luke's, built in the 13th century and, the latest, an Orthodox cathedral constructed just after the turn of the 20th century.

Kotor is a remote treasure enriched by unsurpassable rugged beauty, a destination that is locked in firmly as a jewel of this cruise.

Venetian Flourishes in Corfu, Greece

 Corfu, Greece, or Kerkyra, lies just southwest of Albania, the southernmost country of the Balkan peninsula. Our Silversea cruise next takes us to Corfu, one of 100 Greek islands that stretch from the Aegean Sea to the Baltic countries. An Ionian Island just off the Adriatic and Mediterranean seas, Corfu is a natural bridge between Europe and the Middle East. The Venetians discovered its particular appeal passing through Corfu in their commercial trading ventures and leaving vestiges of their distinctive architecture in Corfu Town.

Renovated for the European Union summit in 1994, Corfu Town is one of the most elegant capitals in Greece, though many fine buildings were destroyed by Nazi bombers in World War II. Two massive forts protect the crescent-shaped harbor at each end, one constructed by the Byzantines in the 12^th century 100 years before the Venetians began work on the “new” citadel.  In the brutal August sun, we stroll gingerly through Corfu Town, where a major arcaded street front resembles Paris’ Rue de Rivoli, thanks to the French occupation earlier in the 20^th century. The city’s architecture is a hybrid of styles from the occupying armies passing from East to West over the centuries, including the Byzantine Museum in a restored church, with icons, frescoes, sculptures and mosaics from the 15^th-19^th century, and the Orthodox Cathedral built in 1577. Among its icons, the cathedral displays an image of Saint George Slaying the Dragon and three dark atmospheric Italianate paintings from the 16^th century.

As we leave port in the early evening, I consult Henry Miller, quoted in Travelers’ Tales, Travelers Tales Greece: True Stories (Travelers' Tales Guides): “The traveler awakes aboard ship at dawn, with land ahead of him and one shoulder of an island hunched up to the right of the vessel. It is an easy island to identify – those polished great fruity-looking mountains are Albanian. They are spacious and bare, and warmly painted in by the sun as it struggles up to shine over their shoulders on the sea. Corfu lies like a sickle beside the flanks of the mainland, forming a great calm bay, which narrows at both ends so that the tide are squeezed and calmed as they pass into it.”

“He is not of course the first visitor to be electrified by Greek light, to be intoxicated by the white dancing candescence of the sun on a sea with blue sky pouring into it,” Miller goes on. “...Wherever you go in Greece the people open up like flowers...No country I have visited has given me such a sense of grandeur...Greece is a little like China or India. It is a world of illusion.”

Sorrento, Come Back!

We're leavingSorrento, Italy  at twilight on the Silversea cruise line’s 200-passenger Silver Wind, moving away from Italy’s Amalfi Coast,  past Capri, through the narrow straits of Messina and Sicily to the west. The Mediterranean is smooth azure blue. Light winds, soon no land in sight, as the sun hovers over the horizon line, then sinks out of sight. Open space, air, sky nurture gentle thoughts and allow the mind to open, far away from the usual daily clatter. A solo walker moves quickly around the upper deck jogging track, as waiters set up al fresco dining on the pool deck below. I savor these moments between day and night, graceful transitions.

We left Sorrento at 6 pm. “Come Back to Sorrento” hums playfully in the back of my mind. For more than 2500 years, Sorrento has been the preferred home to emperors, kings, popes, great musicians, writers, artists. Across the Bay of Naples, with Mt. Vesuvius looming in the haze, Sorrento’s sharp craggy bluffs protect what was once a small genteel resort, now transformed for summer holidays across the tiny beaches grabbing every inch of sand below its formidable cliffs. (We didn't visit Pompeii, but Robert Harris' historical novel Pompeii: A Novel is a gripping way to do so.)

The Amalfi Coast – hundreds, perhaps a thousand, hairpin turns from Sorrento to Salerno, past Positano, the world’s most photographed fishing village. The Greeks settled Sorrento in the 6^th century BC and gave it the name, Surrentum, “City of the Sirens.” Virtually every European and Eurasian tribe lived there, culminating in the late 19^th century Belle Epoque architecture of the central square. I buy some extra-large Italian wraparound sunglasses, a la Gina Lollobrigida, as we retreat to the cruise ship’s much-cooler decks and read about the Greek Islands coming up tomorrow with a stop in Corfu.

 

Luxury Cruising: Custom Travel

Luxury cruises allow for a customized experience built around ports, cuisine, room style, or entertainment. Not interested in a floating city, we opted for Silversea cruise's all-suite small ship experience, regularly voted "the world's best small ship cruise line." Onboard the Silver Whisper, a luxury floating hotel, we learned that Silversea's advertising slogan, "Nothing Excluded," is not hype. With 350 passengers and 270 crew, our wishes were literally their command.

Silversea's all-inclusive experience spared us the inelegance of costly add-ons (except the shore tours, which we avoided anyway). Silversea's "all-inclusive promise" means that all beverages are complimentary throughout the ship, including in-suite beverage cabinets and mini-frigs that are replenished with our preferences daily (some premium wines and spirits are available at an additional charge), as well as all on-board gratuities, in-suite movies and videos, twice daily suite service, personalized stationery, personal email address, and 24-hour room service. While some cruise lines have started the tacky daily automatic gratuity and nonrefundable service charges, Silversea has not, thankfully. Of course, the proper and genteel luxury cruise traveler still tips generously at the end of the experience.

Our suites were 701 square feet -- twice the size of all but the seven largest suites (and more than half the size of my condo). Most of the suites have private verandas (of teak), and Silversea staterooms have marble bathrooms with Jacuzzi tubs, walk-in closets, separate bedrooms, and two televisions. The public areas are sleek and modern with beautiful woods, tasteful textiles, and Venetian decor representative of an Italian-built, Italian-based cruise line. Such refined elegance results in a noticeable investment in glassware and mirrors, crystal and silverware, paintings and sculpture. The overall effect is that of a luxury chartered yacht.

Mornings and late afternoons on private verandas, individual tables at all meals, no grouped dinner "seatings," quiet well-stocked libraries, a computer center, genteel parlors, staff who call you by name. I took my morning coffee in the observation deck in the stern. One late afternoon on the private veranda with a glass of wine, I saw what appeared to be a whale diving into the sea. Later storms in the distance led up to a brilliant and edgy sunset.

You will be spoiled, so savor the magic. It arrives unexpectedly.

The Luxury Cruise: Do It Now!

A luxury cruise, like the Silversea Silver Whisper -- drop dead luxury. Do it once, do it now. And to get the most out of it, keep in mind that nothing is perfect, even luxury. So plan for that and you'll have the time of your life. In fact, once you get the hang of it, you can use these tips to turn an ordinary trip into a luxury experience.

Tip One: Luxury is affordable. Shop online or follow travel section ads and find a premier cruise for huge discounts off the rack rate, especially if you travel in the shoulder season -- just before or after high season, which is now. We chose the Silversea line because it is often referred to as the world's best small ship cruise line, offering stateroom suites with private teak verandas and a culinary Relais & Chateau affiliation. It didn't take much digging to find an advertised discount fare from Silversea for 50% off the published fare. In our case that amounted to $3247 a person rather than $6395 each. That's all-inclusive -- meals, most wines and beverages (including in-suite beverage cabinets stocked with our preferences), complimentary 24-hour room service, in-suite movies and CD player, and normal gratuities -- and, most importantly, an impeccably trained staff that does not (to a person) know how to say "no."

Luxury Cruise -- That's My Ship!

As we embark on the wonderful cruise season, here's a helpful list of the luxury cruise lines, which is, dears, the only way to travel. And, trust me, there are bargains to be found to allow us hoi polloi to travel in such high style. Check out Silversea cruises carefully right now. And stay tuned, because I've done it.

Cruises: More Land, Less Sea?

The new trend in cruising is to spend more time off the ship than on, but that's not working for all passengers, the Wall Street Journal reports. Cruise lines continue to beef up their land excursions, including some with overnight hotel stays, adding to costs for passengers and diluting the pleasure of the floating hotel for an all-encompassing vacation. Shore excursions appeal to younger and more active travelers, who enjoy the mix of land and sea, now that the average cruise age is age 50 (down from 60 a decade ago). But they also help cruise lines, who have had to reduce fees to build occupancy, make up the difference in their revenues, including partnerships with onshore tour operators.

Alternatively, you can guarantee staying onboard for trans-Atlantic crossings that transport ships back and forth for the fall and winter seasons -- and they are often great values, especially now.

Two things are for certain:

• Cruising is hot and the best variety and value are highly competitive among cruise lines.
• But beware, ports and excursions can be boring, deadly, and drain your wallet.

Stay tuned for my special cruising report later in the summer.

Ducking Hurricanes? Choose a Cruise

Cruising may be the best way to keep your vacation from being damaged by a hurricane this summer, which is expected to be another higher than average hurricane season. Typically 4 to 6 of these ill winds blow through the Southeast US, Bahamas, Caribbean, Gulf of Mexico, and parts of the eastern Pacific between June 1 and Nov. 30 each year. In 2005, the official prediction is 7 to 9. Of course, these are odds -- the first tropical storm, Arlene, never grew into a hurricane. But if the past few years are any indication, it's a good idea to have some options.

That said, here is an inside tip to 8 dreamy but less well-known beaches in the tropics, according to Caribbean Travel & Life, and resources for the best diving in the Florida Keys, where marine scientists and environmentalists are working hard to preserve and restore over-dived and polluted reefs.