womantraveler

Spotted by Locals: European Insiders' View

We heard about Spotted by Locals, a smart new website on which local handpicked bloggers dish out tips about cool spots, both traditional and offbeat, to visit in their own European cities. So we tested Paris, which we know pretty well, and, bien sur, our favorite Left Bank resto, Fish la Boissonnerie, was one of the features. Plus, les Parisien bloggers suggested ways to experience some of the typical sights in new ways, such as the picturesque gardens Luxembourg and Jardin des Plantes.

Not that some of these recommendations wouldn't be in a typical guidebook, but the perspective is definitely "from the ground up," where everyday people enjoy something fabulous that outsiders are not going to find easily unless we have their lens. You feel like you're talking to someone you know, who's sincere and believable, and there are maps to help get you to their choices. This is a site to use as part of your broader searching -- it's not all-inclusive, but a welcome peak into an authentic experience. Bravo!

Paris: Remarkable Stained Glass

"Do not miss the exquisite stained glass windows of Paris' Sainte-Chapelle near sunset," my Womantraveler pal advised, and she was breathtakingly correct. For peaceful, reassuring and exquisite beauty, I would package the day with lunch at Printemps' department store -- under the Art Nouveau stained-glass restaurant dome -- and a late afternoon visit to Sainte-Chapelle. The vitrail (stained glass) of Paris is unrepeatable soothing pleasure.

All this is easier post-summer when tourist traffic has slowed  and the lines, such as those at Sainte-Chapelle, much shorter. That, of course, is an issue of convenience, not preference. Whenever you go to Paris, be sure to put these stops on your to-do list. You won't always find them underscored in the usual tourist guides, but you'll see Parisians and French visitors appreciating their perfect beauty.

Printemps' stained glass dome, dominated by floral patterns, was built in 1923. Of all the Paris department stores, I find Printemps the most manageable -- terrific clothing balanced by variety for all pocketbooks and intimate service. Lunch, or simply a coffee after an exhausting shopping cruise, is delightfully spent in the Brasserie Printemps. Later, over on the Ile de la Cite near Notre- Dame, the Gothic Sainte-Chapelle church dates back to the 12th century, an awesome display of stained glass by artisans telling the story of the Passion. Visitors sit quietly within and look up, their thoughts their own.

Nespresso -- What Else?

If George Clooney declares coyly "Nespresso, what else?" on French television, bien sur, we are in complete agreement. Actually we were already in the know, having discovered the hip Nespresso boutique along Paris' Champs Elysses one damp April afternoon.  From then on, our coffee habits back in the US changed totally. Womantraveler threw out the drip coffee machines and bean grinders for daily espressos from a Nespresso "Le Cube" machine. And her friend started drinking espresso (in decaf doses) for the first time.

Let's be clear -- this transformation in daily coffee routines comes from a major coffee drinker who has tried virtually everything over the years. Nespresso's magic and utility lie in a smart combination -- cool style, prepackaged coffee capsules (notably of excellent flavor and intensity), absence of messy coffee grounds, very reasonable price and easy online ordering. While Nespresso-style high-tech compression machines from several international manufacturers range from less than $200 to more than $700 in various colors and shapes, each cup of coffee is 55 cents at current prices. That's a steal -- especially when it includes the choice of latte or cappucino. All this without steam and the potential of high-compression espresso-maker explosions (which happened to me once and left a strong impression).

Nespresso's unique system has been around since the late '80s but only now is reaching the US, with the first boutique stores in Manhattan, DC, LA and soon to be San Francisco. Some machines are available at gourmet shops, such as Sur la Table.

An assortment of 12 coffee varieties offers single-shot and double ("lungo") sizes, all prepackaged. Four quick steps -- turn on the machine, fill the water container, plunk the prepackaged capsule into its slot and push the button. The hermetically sealed aluminum capsules maintain complete freshness. They are color-coded and resemble the thumb-size coffee creamer pods used in coffee shops and fast-food chains. I also bought an "Aeroccino" milk frother, which plugs into an electrical outlet and steams or foams milk within a minute. I reorder at minmal cost and two-day (or less) shipping. La voila!

Paris Shopping: The Color Violet

Walk, well even run, to gather the color violet for your fall-winter wardrobe. A virtual sea of shades of purple accents Paris fashion this fall. For those of us who didn't think we could wear "vi-o-lay," believe me, there is a shade that works --from bold and bright to subtle near-gray. And that is only part of the story. Compliment purples with the spectrum of two other surprisingly compatible colors -- red to pink and burnt orange to tangerine. Statements from bold to soft, reminiscent of a palette from the '60s and something for everyone.

I discovered the options by shopping in one of my favorite boutiques on the Ile St-Louis, Yamina Sarl at 56 rue St-Louis en l'Ile. Her clothing is so original and inventive, wearable -- and importantly, very affordable. I go there to try on what's new in sweaters, tops and jackets especially, plenty of contemporary style without attitude. A piece that says subtly but does not scream "Paris." Very up to the minute in fabrics and colors with an easy eye-catching elegance for women with flair. I walked away with a wool and acrylic violet cape/shrug that can serve as a single layering piece or wrap around a coat or sweater for more warmth. Oh, yes, and a feathery silk scarf in violet, red and burnt orange -- an essential accessory of flair year-round in Paris and a cozy barrier against damp winter chill. 

By the way, it's easy to spend a half day along the rue St-Louis en l'Ile, crossing  back and forth along the narrow street from boutique to boutique. Once done, stand in line for an ice cream or sorbet at the popular Maison Berthillon near the western tip at the Pont St-Louis across from Notre-Dame.

Colette, Paris "Concept" Shopping

Colette, the original trendy "concept store" in Paris is shopping as entertainment. Some call it the city's most stylish boutique, well-positioned on the most fashionable shopping avenue, the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore. Colette's concept (aka theme that governs all merchandise) is cutting-edge style from around the world -- hard to fine products that mix genres and tastes but always spell the ultimate in "the now." Clothes, accessories, books, CDs, high and low tech gadgets and lots more from world-famous names like Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and Phillipe Starck. Check out their "eshop" for the Colette collection.

Incidentally, through October 5, Colette's first collection in the US is showcased in a rotating collection at the Gap flagship store in Manhattan, at 54th and 5th Ave.

Entire groups crowd at the corner of 213 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore to line up for entrance intothis  eye-popping three-story boutique. Up on the clothing floor, I quickly cruise and realize there is nothing here that I could possibly wear, but who cares? I buy a cute little barrette and splash on a whiff of a bergamont cologne sample, then head to the very chic "water bar" in the basement, which features mineral waters from around the world. Here an assortment of shoppers, from the preening ones to worldly backpackers, collect in an atmosphere that is the other extreme of the pulsating action above --quiet cool. Opting instead for a healthy "tao" drink of green tea, ginkgo biloba, Vitamin C and biotin, along with a light frothy souffle, I refuel for hours more shopping in central Paris.

Others among the best-known "concept" emporiums include:

• Eclaireur (so ultra-hip for designer clothing that there is no sign -- ring the bell ), 10 rue Herold (Metro: Concorde, 1st Arrondissement) 
• Montaigne Market ( a multi-brand collection of hot new labels on the elegant Avenue Montaigne and its couture houses), 57 ave Montaigne (Metro: Franklin D. Roosevelt, 8th Arr.)
• SFR Le Studio (a boutique stocked with mobile and musical needs, embellished by a concert hall, restaurant and free Wi-Fi access from the first floor), 9 rue Tronchet (Metro: Madeleine, 8th Arr).

Tea Time in Paris, So Civilized

Paris, the "city of light" has many awakenings -- and taking time for tea is one of them.  Espresso is a slam-dunk (see next post) but tea is perhaps an acquired taste -- and an acquired pace. And Paris has a true tea culture. It can be lively as a cafe or a subtle reflective haven. I experienced both.

On a miserable spring morning, after standing in line fruitlessly for an art museum exhibit in the cold drizzle (the lines can be interminable whatever the weather), I gave up on Marie Antoinette at the Grand Palais for a Marie Antoinette restorative China tea at Laduree, the renowned tearoom at 16 rue Royale (8th), a merciful few blocks away in the Right Bank's Place Madeleine. Understandably, it was jammed, but accepting the first table in the less crowded upstairs was a smart move. I settled in to a banquette. Laduree, with several locations, is a mixture of a cafe (for tea) and a cake shop. During the emergence of cafes in Paris in the late 19th century, Laduree (founded in 1862) welcomed women, unlike the traditional cafes. Today it is also patissier, chocolatier, confiseur, restaurant and, iconically, salon de the.

Ironies of ironies, my eye lands on the Marie Antoinette -- a delicious China tea mixed with essential oils of subtle citrus fruit, flavors of rose and jasmine flowers, scattered with small pieces of dried fruits and honey. She -- and I -- at that moment in time never had it so good! Laduree is terrific people-watching. My banquette seat along the wall gave a view inside and out -- tourists and locals -- families and solos. Sitting in Second Empire decor, I experienced the modern world. And helped along by a raspberry macaroon.

The next day I was over on the Left Bank in the 6th and settled into one of the Mariage Freres tearooms, at 13 rue des Grands-Augustins. You have to know where you're going on the winding back streets of St. Germain des Pres to land here, nearby the famous restos of Jacques Cagna and Les Bouquinistes. I sat alone in the late afternoon with a myriad of choices, settling in simply with a full pot of "Afternoon Tea" for $12 (my own completely unhurried pot at a white-table clothed table where I could write and think for an hour). The shop downstairs has hundreds of teas from around the world.

"Un parfum d'aventure et de poesie s'evade a l'infini de chaque tasse de the," said founder Henri Mariage back in 1854. D'accord!

Paris: Le Shopping, Spring 2008

This is a budget-challenging year in Paris, but, dears, there are lots of fashion bargains. Chic-chic Paris is much more affordable than its buzz. Everyone notices these distinctive finds, and it's always such fun to say, "Oh, I got this in Paris..." 

• Jackets: I'm hooked on Eva Tralala boiled wool jackets. The price point is amazing (several styles under $100). They're warm but not bulky, versatile and easy to pack. Each trip I make a beeline to Nina Jacob, 23 rue des Francs-Bourgeois in the 4th (Marais), to check out the latest collection.
• Pashminas: I am constantly complimented on the pashminas I have bought in or near a Metro station, in a stall along the street and, most recently, from a sidewalk vendor right outside Printemps, one of the city's signature department stores. I took advantage of a "three-for" special and paid about $10 each for three colorful patterned pashminas (in rayon and wool) that always draw attention. They're eye-catching and distinctive and dress up any outfit, especially the basic black that is my default travel wardrobe. Inside Printemps, I bought a new Longchamp bag, the folding pocketbook in multiple sizes and colors.
• Jewelry: Go for the strands. Long, short, multiple chains around the neck -- pearls, semi-precious stones and metallic loops are big. You'll find terrific deals all over town, you just have to get out and browse. My recent finds occurred in the Marais and along the rue Saint Louis en l'Ile on the exclusive Ile St-Louis, where you should pop into these shops -- Natacha Bijoux (#54)(#52), Sarl Thelma (#75) and Le Grain de Sable (#79 -- which also specializes in hats and handbags). On a previous visit, I chronicled the jewelry and accessories shops on "Le Mouffe" (Rue Mouffetard) and nearby Left Bank environs. 
• Scarves: In Paris, you always need them -- for warmth at the neck or an extra layer over a coat in winter and as a casual or dressy accessory year-round. Parisians wear them with a je ne sais quoi effortless style, but they are always intentional -- wrapped around the neck a couple of times, knotted or with the ends quickly looped through one time to keep them from flying off. Back in the US, I unfold them for wraps on a summer night and neckwear to keep out the damp when it's cooler. Some also double as pashminas (see above). Here's a store with hundreds of options in various fabrics, colors and patterns -- Diwali at 52, rue Saint Louis en l'ile, with four other locations -- 47/49, rue Mouffetard; 7, rue de la Huchette (5th); 40, rue Saint Andre des Arts (6th), and 5, rue Norvins (18th). A dressier collection is found at Yamina Sarl, 56 rue St-Louis en l'Ile on the Ile St-Louis.
• Village St. Paul: Several shops clustered in the Marais are also favorite destinations, starting with gifts and accessories at the very friendly Patch World, 7 rue Saint Paul, bordering the historic and artsy Village St. Paul. At Patch World I picked up a couple of high-tech acrylic necklaces and a low-tech tin vase cover. Across the street at Miravidi (16, rue St Paul) is a stunning jewelry selection in acrylic, plexiglas, mother-of-pearl and Swarovski crystal. The enclosed St. Paul "village" is also an eclectic destination for antiques and artisans.

  

Paris Bistros: The Real Thing

How does one choose where to eat in Paris anyway? Quick answer -- a combination of research and serendipity.  Here's a place to go -- Au Bon St-Pourcain. I myself, moi-meme, prefer simple home-style cooking without all the drama. That's harder and harder to find, not because it doesn't exist, but with all the ratings and rankings and (shooting myself in the foot here) self-defined experts that we've all become tend to overlook "le vrai gout."

Upon the recommendation of my driver, who was a budding filmmaker partly educated in LA), I had visited the stunning exhibition of the little-known French foundational Fauvist Maurice de Vlaminck at the Musee du Luxembourg. This exhibition, which closes mid-July is a must-see.

Afterwards, I was meandering toward the St-Sulpice church, of Da Vinci Code fame, when I crossed paths with Au Bon St-Pourcain on a narrow street.

This resto was on my list, and Paris insiders already know about this 26-seat corner bistro (10 bis, rue Servandondi). Imagine my surprise to be the only guest at 1:30 pm. (It's the euro-dollar imbalance, the owner told me with great chagrin. Such establishments are truly hurting this year, even after 20+ years in the business.) But also to my surprise today's "plat du jour" special at 20 euros is blanquette de veau (blanquette of veal), the type of meal that chefs don't throw together at the last minute. It is best stewed for several hours, in expectation of the guests who will arrive. That's the type of care that owner and former Deux Magots waiter Francois (and his daughter Fabienne, who was managing the cozy room) put into the cooking and reception.

This is an "old friends" place. I felt like an old friend -- and was treated that way.

April in Paris: Hooked on Fish

My friends got married 25 years ago and spent their honeymoon in Paris. I didn't know them then. So when the subject of the 25th anniversary came up  this year, la voila!...Let's celebrate in Paris! New friends from California, we were coincidentally going to be in Paris anyway. So knowing about "Fish" --  Fish la Boissonnerie on the Rue de Seine in the 6th -- made me very popular. Everyone wants to say we have a neighborhood favorite that we keep returning to in Paris. For me, Fish is the resto for all occasions.

No need to put on your fancy pants. Fish, though not created by locals, is the most local of Paris restos. The owners -- from the US and New Zealand -- lived out the dreams we all have to reinvent ourselves in Paris. The building on the stylishly bohemian Left Bank is old and quaint. Good solid antique stones and half-timbered construction. Sort of a "cave" look, but authentic. An intimate bar (and a no pressure environment place for solo women). A small and cozy dining area. Solid wood tables, benches and chairs, no white table cloths. Welcoming and friendly in a generously multilingual way. English, French, Spanish, locals, tourists, whoever -- we're all treated the same. No pretense, no drama. Upon choosing Fish, we all immediately belong.

I happened upon Fish three years ago, so upon returning twice this year, I tried Fish again each time. It's a Patricia Wells favorite, and as an respected expert on Parisian cuisine, she counts for a lot. And clearly I'm hooked. Why -- because of the thousands of blinding choices in Paris, I know what I'm getting. It's excellent, and it's easy. Delicious, careful preparation, inventive yet simple, affordable and comfortable. Carefully chosen and featured wines, with an extensive selection, from around the world. The Fish-related wine shop, La Derniere Gout, is five minutes away. We hung out for three-plus hours and had no clue of the time. Back home in California, 10 minutes apart, we keep wondering for our next get-together, when can we rendezvous at Fish?

Email for reservations at laboissonnerie@wandaoo.fr. You'll hear right back.

Paris Pearls: Lovely Show to Close Soon

“Pearls: a Natural History,” an exhibit at the Museum National d'Histoire Naturelle in Paris, is a truly precious excursion. After a long stay, unfortunately it closes on March 10 (and is closed Tuesdays). Our Womantraveler correspondent lucked out on a beautiful winter day in the Jardin des Plantes, where the museum’s Grande Galerie de l’Evolution is hosting the show.

“Perles” is science, art and fashion. As they here,  this view of pearls is "superb."

In a darkened chamber, suggesting the depths of the sea, a video intro illustrates a pearl’s formation. Pearl properties are similar to calcium. Grit sucked into a shell begins a mineralization process that results in a pearl. Intimately presented, the rich history of pearls leaves the ocean depths for the heights of creativity – more than 1000 articles, including 300 pieces of jewelry, works of art from designers such as Cartier, ancient beaded ceremonial gowns, rare jewels loaned by designers such as Mikimoto. It also describes modern-day therapies using mother-of-pearl, whose building blocks, manipulated through nanotechnology, are used to form and strengthen bone and as biocrystal molecules that are active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics.

Pearls, by the way, are tres a la mode in Paris these days, not only in the sophisticated chokers a la Chanel but also the in the pervasive necklaces of stones and metal dangling in a single strand or wrapped several times at the neck.

Details: Admission 8 euros, 5th Arrondissement in the Jardin des Plantes

Metro: Gare d’Austerlitz, Jussieu or Censier-Daubenton