Paris’ Cathedral of Notre-Dame is defiantly rebuilding, and more than anything else on my latest trip to Paris, I wanted to witness it. In the early evening of April 15, 2019, the Cathedral of Notre-Dame, the masterpiece of Gothic architecture that symbolizes Paris to the world, tragically went up in flames. The fire caused the … Paris’ Cathedral of Notre-Dame Rebuilds READ MORE »

This is a terrible, heart-wrenching story… On 10 June 1944, the village of Oradour-sur-Glane, in the lovely rolling hills northwest of Limoges, France, was destroyed when 643 civilians, including non-combatant women and children, were massacred by a German Waffen-SS company. Only six people survived – and this what they reported: rolling through town, the SS … The Horror of Oradour-sur-Glane at the end of World War II READ MORE »

Limoges, France is perhaps best known for “The Art of Fire” – the beautiful porcelain manufactured here under many recognized brands such as Bernardaud, whose family has been a leader in porcelain-making for five generations since 1863. We learned more about this fascinating process by reserving tickets for a tour of Maison Bernardaud. The 90-minute … Bernardaud – An Inside View of Porcelain-Making READ MORE »

The “Dames Blanches” or White Ladies are ephemeral figures draped in white that roam at night like ghostly spirits as part of the lore of the religious wars of the 16th century updated with the romantic tales reconstructed in the 19th century in France’s Périgord region. Seven minutes from Sarlat, en route back to Limoges, … Trapped in a Tower – Inside a Castle with La Dame Blanche de Puymartin READ MORE »

Canoeing isn’t what it used to be. When I was growing up in the Midwest, we canoed on ponds and down small “rivers” with minimal white water. We portaged, set up overnight camps and swam in the water. The route was relatively shady, with tree branches drooping over the water. There were a few rocks … Canoeing on the Dordogne River in Charming Périgord READ MORE »

We approached our gîte in rural Limousin northeast of Limoges with excitement and cautious anticipation. The large stone farmhouse is part of Gîtes de France, an association that markets its member list and also requires certain standards for these rural vacation homes, which can range from very rustic to surprisingly upscale and also can be … Delicious Pleasures in Rural France READ MORE »

If there is bright news about the Paris heat wave, it’s that the severe weather forced me inside to be enveloped in beauty. Having toured most of the museums over the years at a time that they weren’t teeming with tourists, I had been anticipating strolling all over the city, and being more impulsive about … The Cooling Blues of Monet’s Water Lilies READ MORE »

Arriving in Paris during this summer’s series of excessive heat waves, I’m already certain that climate change will be a central theme of this vacation. Thanks to “la canicule” in France, daily temperatures are breaking records across the country (upwards of 40 C, which is 104 F), not only in the arid hotter regions of … I Love Paris When It Sizzles – How Climate Change is Changing Travel READ MORE »

I had ballet and opera on my mind as I strolled on my first full day in Paris past the Place de la Concorde with its “luxe” shops and The Ritz Paris Hotel north to the Palais Garner, the magnificent example of 19th century theater architecture where the the Opéra National de Paris and the … The Palais Garnier on Paris’ Right Bank READ MORE »

I am flying to Paris today. As I do before each of these “significant” trips, in preparation for my journey I took the amply-dogeared paperback, The Art of Travel by Alain de Botton, from my bookshelf in search of wisdom, insight, even a mantra, to accompany me. I once took this little volume with me … France 2022 – Dreamy Anticipation with a Dose of Reality READ MORE »

Travel messes with our minds. It jostles us out of complacency and predisposes us to take risks. So I challenged myself to go “all in” when our local Alliance Française group hosted a marching band from central France. It was a happy reawakening of a spirit so many have lost in recent years of both … A Most Unusual Bastille Day with the Gueules Seches READ MORE »

As travel writers reprise their best journeys while unable to travel, this is one of my firsts and my favorites as a business Womantraveler…It’s a condensation of the original article published in The Washington Post on Jan. 27, 1980 when I was a staff writer… Tours, France, 1980 (original title – “Sweetening the Scene: A … Pandemic Journal: An Inside View of French Wine-Making READ MORE »

The first time I lived in Paris, back in the late 1970s, Notre Dame – “Our Lady” – was a 10 minute walk and I passed by her almost every day. While she was burning last night, my initial reaction was that I had taken her splendor for granted. When I heard commentators remark that … Praying for “Our Lady” of Notre Dame READ MORE »

Despite frequent trips to Paris, I had always taken the Eiffel Tower for granted. Both awesome and flamboyant, it’s always in the distant background in the City of Light. But during this trip the Eiffel Tower was a friendly a good neighbor just a few blocks away — always in sight out the window, glowing … Girlfriends in Paris: Living Near the Eiffel Tower READ MORE »

The French can write volumes on a single sip of wine. Here’s an insider’s lexicon of a variety of nouns and adjectives that the savvy connoisseurs use to describe the experience. Combine the bolded words — which are favorable — into remarks like, “This wine is harmonious, with great finesse and grand character,” or “A … France: Know Your Wine Words READ MORE »

Wandering around Paris for more than a week, I made a list of the shops that don’t always make the guide books and thus might not be on your list . They’re worth checking out. Why? In a city that has a true embarrassment of riches, these are the places that stood out, kept me … Paris – Le Shopping READ MORE »

Womentravelers ask me if it’s possible these days to have a great meal in Paris without breaking the travel budget, given the sharply declining value of the American dollar against the euro. My answer is a resounding “yes!” — and on a regular basis. After 25 years of traveling to France, I continue to marvel … Paris at the Table READ MORE »

Paris is a magical history tour. Armed with any number of Paris guidebooks and specialized tours, you can experience your choice of centuries in a full or half day by strolling through the districts (or Arrondissements) of the central core of the city, which evolved from particular eras into a collective whole. One reason my … Paris: Solo on the Left Bank, Part 2 READ MORE »

In her more than 20 years in Paris, food critic and connoisseur Patricia Wells has steeped herself in the culture, traditions, restaurants and home cooking of Paris and of France. Her authoritative book, The Food Lover’s Guide to Paris, 4th Edition, has more than 400 pages of info on dining, cooking schools, specialty foods, wine … Patricia Wells Talks Parisian Cuisine: An Interview READ MORE »

The heart of Paris for me will always be the Left Bank, and now as a solo Womantraveler here, I particularly advocate this lively and compact Latin Quarter area for women alone or with girlfriends. In a relatively small and historic area of the 5th and 6th Arrondissements (extending into the 7th), the range of … Paris: Solo on the Left Bank, Part 1 READ MORE »